Dar Es Salaam

Dar Es Salaam

We finally made it to Tanzania! We had easy flights from Cape Town to Johannesburg and then Jo'burg to Dar Es Salaam. When we landed in Dar we were hit with a blast of warm air walking off the plane. We are pretty much right on the equator here  Our good friends, Molly and Logan, were waiting for us amid the sea of drivers holding up signs. Dar is not considered the safest city, especially at night, so we were extra grateful that Molly & Logan could pick us up. We hopped in their car and set off for home. The power was out in the central part of the city, and the roads were totally dark, with no working stop lights. This is apparently pretty standard, so no one seemed to mind. As we were stopped in traffic, many people would try to sell us stuff or just come up to the window begging for money. At one point, when we had just started to move again, a young guy came running up to the car. I thought he was trying to run in front of us and through the traffic, but he stopped by the passenger's door, quickly popped the side mirror off the car as we were moving, and ran off as we sped away. Welcome to Dar!  It was so fast, and he clearly had practice in how to get the mirror off in about 3 seconds. Annoying, but at least it was just a mirror and not anything worse. 

We are staying with the wonderful Wheelers - our friends, Molly & Logan. They live in Dar Es Salaam in an absolutely beautiful house, and it has been such a treat to stay with them - big comfy bed, air conditioning, clean shower with hot water that we don't have to share with 20 other people. So luxurious!  Because of all these things, we've done a lot of lounging around and not too much else. Also we've done a lot of lounging because it is HOT. It feels like the worst summer days in NC, with incredibly high humidity. It's no wonder not a whole lot gets done around here between noon and 5pm. It makes you feel like all you can do is sit very, very still under a tree and wait for a breeze. 

There is an awesome market right across the street from M&L's house with all sorts of hand crafted goodies for sale. Bargaining is the name of the game here, and they are really good at it.  I am absolutely the worst bargainer in the world. Luckily it's one of Jonathan's specialties. I always just ask the price, sheepishly ask if they'd take less, and then immediately feel bad for some reason, as if I'm the one trying to rip them off, when it's definitely the other way around. I just can't do it. And they are such good hustlers. They greet you so warmly and practically pull you into their shops and start taking things down off the wall and putting them in your hands. I find myself suddenly being talked into buying a giant fertility sculpture or some other random item that I never wanted until Jonathan comes to the rescue and says no to everything they're pushing and then talks them down 50% on the things we do want. It's probably a skill I should learn, but for now, I'll just let him do it!

Yesterday we went out to "South Beach" which is just down the coast a little ways from M&L's house. We found a great beach where they would let us cook, since we had first stopped at the fish market and gotten 4 beautiful red snappers. The ocean was gorgeous, but it was truly the temperature of bath water. Quite a change from Cape Town!!

We've met a bunch of Molly and Logan's friends here, and it is such a friendly, inviting group. In the next few days, we're planning to go out to Bongoyo, a small island that is mostly undeveloped where we can just relax and enjoy the scenery. Then we're going to visit Zanzibar for a few days before we head north for our safari. I am so excited about the safari, I can hardly stand it!!