London
Well, we made it to the end of our journey...almost. We took a shuttle from Arusha to Nairobi the day after our safari ended. We had to cross the Tanzania/Kenya border, which was a nightmare. We've done a lot of border crossings on this trip, and they've all been pretty smooth and easy. This was Sunday afternoon at 5pm, there were many buses that came at the same time, and there was a strike by the truck drivers all at the same time. What should have taken 15 minutes ended up taking almost 2 hours.
There was absolutely no order to the process whatsoever. This mass of people show up at the same time, but they continue to only have 3 windows open, while a couple guys in uniforms sit in the back reading the paper. There were no lines really, just an amoeba of people pushing their way towards the windows, and if you weren't pushy enough, you didn't get there. We were behind a nice guy from Norway and were making jokes the whole time, because what else are you going to do? There was a box on the wall with "suggestion box" written on it. I looked more carefully at the box and there was no slot or any way to put a suggestion into the suggestion box. It was just a box nailed shut and screwed to the wall. I guess somewhere, someone said, "You must have a suggestion box." And so they do...sort of??
We finally got to the airport and had an easy but cramped flight to London that left Nairobi at 11:30pm and got into London at 6am. London was our first destination where we were "couch surfing." (Couch surfing - www.couchsurfing.com - is basically a way for people to open their homes to travelers for a night or two, and give them a place to sleep and a friend in the new town to show them around.) We made our way on The Tube and then a bus to Helen and Tony's lovely home in northern London. Since it was 8am on a Monday morning, they were heading out to work after welcoming us. And we were headed out to find our friend, Dan, who had come down from Scotland to see us. He was staying in a nearby hotel, so we gradually made our way to Hyde Park and found him. The weather was absolutely beautiful (and totally abnormal, from what we heard.) It was sunny and only a little chilly - hot by Londoners' standards but pretty cold compared to what we've been used to.
We found Dan and slowly got him up and ready to go and went out to explore the city. We walked through Hyde Park, found a great sushi place for lunch and then headed for the museums. We went to the Natural History museum and the Science Museum. We then found Dan a cute B&B right by our house and settled him in there. We had dinner at an awesome pub near our house. Jonathan got to have fish & chips, and I had incredibly delicious bangers & mash.
The next day we walked around some more and saw many of the famous sites - Big Ben, parliament, Westminster Abbey, and loads of lovely parks. The weather was incredible again and all the food we had was super, even though I always hear that British food is not the greatest.
Yesterday we flew out mid day and luckily had a direct flight to Raleigh. We even managed to talk our way into getting an upgrade to first class! Fantastic way to end a trip. As we got closer to home, I got more and more excited about getting back to work, seeing our friends and family, and especially our animals. But it will be sad to no longer have these amazing adventures everyday.
We have so many people to thank for helping us and allowing us to go on this journey. I will not list them all here, because surely I will forget someone! But to all of you who supported us, please know how grateful we are. This was absolutely the experience of a lifetime.
Thursday, March 29, 2012
Saturday, March 24, 2012
Safari - the last days
Safari - Day 5
Rock hyrax
Termite mounds
Cheetah - Duma
Today was our last day in the Serengeti. We headed off in the morning and stopped first at the visitors' center, where they have a great little walking trail explaining about the Serengeti ecosystem and many of the different animals. It's such a vast place, and there is so much to learn about here. The Serengeti National Park is almost 15,000 sq km, and the whole "Serengeti Ecosystem" is 26,000 sq km. Hard to even fathom that kind of space.
We stopped to watch some giraffes munching on the acacias and then headed out the way we came in, seeing a few more lions on the way out and even two cheetahs way in the distance, standing on top of termite mounds. There are these huge termite mounds all throughout the park. We read at the museum that they are built so high in order to create cooling ducts that keep the inside and bottom of the colony cool. There is one queen in the mound, and she can lay up to 1000 eggs per hour and keep laying eggs for 20 years. Gross and impressive.
Today our destination was Lake Manyara. It is a huge alkaline lake that is its own national park. At "only" 332 sq km, it's a small park by Tanzanian standards. We arrived in the early evening and settled into our lovely campground. The campground is in the town of Mto wa Mbu, or Mosquito River in English. Unfortunately it lives up to its name, so we went to bed early in our tent which was hot but free of mosquitos.
Day 6
Blue monkey - kima
Yellow billed stork
Ground Hornbill
Today we spent the morning in Lake Manyara National Park. It has such a different feel from anywhere else we've been. It has many different ecosystems within the park, but the first part that we drove through was a rain forest. The trees were huge and some were quite different than what we've seen. There are many giant fig trees which have huge roots that can penetrate even the hardest rock. Then there were many Baobob trees up on the hillsides which are so strange looking. Apparently there is no way to date Baobob trees, but some of them are so huge, they must be hundreds of years old. The park is named for the Manyara tree, which the Maasai use to make fences. It looked more like a bush to me, and it makes stalky branches that become sticky and milky when you break them.
We saw 4 more lions, tons of giraffes, warthogs, impalas, gazelles, zebra, wildebeest, and more monkeys than we've seen anywhere else. There were baboons in groups of 40-50, vervet monkeys and blue monkeys. This was the first time we'd seen the blue monkeys. We also got to watch an old bull elephant in a watering hole, spraying himself with mud to keep the flies away and digging in the dirt with his tusks.
We had one more delicious lunch made by Prochess. He made ugali, which is a very common dish in Tanzania. It is basically like cold, congealed grits, and it tastes as good as that sounds. But he also made a yummy stewed cabbage in a peanut sauce which, when mixed with the ugali, made it much better. He also made nyama choma, which is goat or beef chunks roasted with carrots and onions in a light curry sauce. At every meal we've had fresh fruit, such as pineapple, mango, orange, or watermelon. I think we both gained 5 lbs in the last 5 days eating Prochess' food and doing nothing but riding around in a car!
Tonight it's back to Arusha and tomorrow onto Nairobi, where we fly at night to London. We're in the home stretch!
Rock hyrax
Termite mounds
Cheetah - Duma
Today was our last day in the Serengeti. We headed off in the morning and stopped first at the visitors' center, where they have a great little walking trail explaining about the Serengeti ecosystem and many of the different animals. It's such a vast place, and there is so much to learn about here. The Serengeti National Park is almost 15,000 sq km, and the whole "Serengeti Ecosystem" is 26,000 sq km. Hard to even fathom that kind of space.
We stopped to watch some giraffes munching on the acacias and then headed out the way we came in, seeing a few more lions on the way out and even two cheetahs way in the distance, standing on top of termite mounds. There are these huge termite mounds all throughout the park. We read at the museum that they are built so high in order to create cooling ducts that keep the inside and bottom of the colony cool. There is one queen in the mound, and she can lay up to 1000 eggs per hour and keep laying eggs for 20 years. Gross and impressive.
Today our destination was Lake Manyara. It is a huge alkaline lake that is its own national park. At "only" 332 sq km, it's a small park by Tanzanian standards. We arrived in the early evening and settled into our lovely campground. The campground is in the town of Mto wa Mbu, or Mosquito River in English. Unfortunately it lives up to its name, so we went to bed early in our tent which was hot but free of mosquitos.
Day 6
Blue monkey - kima
Yellow billed stork
Ground Hornbill
Today we spent the morning in Lake Manyara National Park. It has such a different feel from anywhere else we've been. It has many different ecosystems within the park, but the first part that we drove through was a rain forest. The trees were huge and some were quite different than what we've seen. There are many giant fig trees which have huge roots that can penetrate even the hardest rock. Then there were many Baobob trees up on the hillsides which are so strange looking. Apparently there is no way to date Baobob trees, but some of them are so huge, they must be hundreds of years old. The park is named for the Manyara tree, which the Maasai use to make fences. It looked more like a bush to me, and it makes stalky branches that become sticky and milky when you break them.
We saw 4 more lions, tons of giraffes, warthogs, impalas, gazelles, zebra, wildebeest, and more monkeys than we've seen anywhere else. There were baboons in groups of 40-50, vervet monkeys and blue monkeys. This was the first time we'd seen the blue monkeys. We also got to watch an old bull elephant in a watering hole, spraying himself with mud to keep the flies away and digging in the dirt with his tusks.
We had one more delicious lunch made by Prochess. He made ugali, which is a very common dish in Tanzania. It is basically like cold, congealed grits, and it tastes as good as that sounds. But he also made a yummy stewed cabbage in a peanut sauce which, when mixed with the ugali, made it much better. He also made nyama choma, which is goat or beef chunks roasted with carrots and onions in a light curry sauce. At every meal we've had fresh fruit, such as pineapple, mango, orange, or watermelon. I think we both gained 5 lbs in the last 5 days eating Prochess' food and doing nothing but riding around in a car!
Tonight it's back to Arusha and tomorrow onto Nairobi, where we fly at night to London. We're in the home stretch!
Safari Day 4
Safari - Day 4
Banded mongoose - muchiro
Red Hornbill
Impala - swalapala
Maribu stork
Crocodile - mamba
Dik dik - digidigi
Elephant - 22 mo gestation, 75 yr lifespan
Well, we made it through the night with no hyena attacks! At one point I heard a very loud breathing right next to me. I woke up with a start and tried to wake up Jonathan, but he was dead to the world. I didn't move and didn't even breath and listened to this heavy breathing for at least a few minutes straight until I finally realized it wasn't a hyena - it was Jonathan! Much relieved I went back to sleep.
If yesterday was the day of the lions, today was the day of the elephants! The previous 2 days we saw these magnificent creatures from far away, but today they were close enough to touch (don't worry, I didn't try.) We came upon a big group of them in the morning, including a few with babies of about 4-6 months. They were about 50 yards off the road, and we just sat quietly and watched them. Gradually they came closer and closer until they were right beside us and then crossed the road directly behind our truck.
They were eating grass and acacia trees. Ignasoro told us that the grown elephants eat up to 300 kg of vegetable matter a day! It's so interesting to watch them eat. They use their trunk to rip up huge wads of grass and stuff it in their mouths. They also eat the acacia trees, which have huge thorns, but they don't seem to care. They wrap their trunk around a branch and then rip off the whole branch, one strip at a time and eat all of it. Pretty impressive, but they leave a scene of destruction behind them.
We also got to see impala by the thousands today. They are so beautiful, and the males have the most impressive set of curved horns. We saw dik diks for the first time too. They are tiny little deer that are the size of a toy poodle on longer legs. They are very shy, and I didn't get very good pictures of them, but they also have little tiny horns. So sweet!
Another amazing site today was the hippo pool. There is a spot where the river makes a big pool, and there are about 100 hippos that hang out there during the day, all piled on top of each other. It's a smelly mess. They sit all day long in this pool and then go out at night to eat grass by the ton. They also poop all day long in the pool, so it's pretty gross. But they are such fascinating looking animals. One guide book described them as a bean bag on little legs with a bad attitude. The grown ones are absolutely huge, and their massive mouths can open up to 150 degrees. They do this from time to time to show off their huge canines in a display of aggression. We didn't see any fighting, but we heard that they can be very nasty to each other and we saw big scars on many of them. The baby hippos were so adorable, and they would try to crawl up on top of the pile sometimes, only to get yelled at by their parents. They make hilarious noises - grunting, blowing bubbles, farting. We watched them for a long time and then headed back for lunch.
In the afternoon we went out again and saw many animals taking a siesta. We came across another group of elephants, at least 28 by my count. There were two adolescent males who were play fighting. It was amazing to watch and hear their tusks scraping against each other. I don't think I would want to see a real fight, this was enough! There were two very little babies in this group, and they never were more than a foot away from their mother. Their gestation period is 22 months, and they can live up to 75 years or more.
As the sun was setting we watched a female lion slowly wake up and come down from her spot in an acacia tree. Quite a way to end the day!
Banded mongoose - muchiro
Red Hornbill
Impala - swalapala
Maribu stork
Crocodile - mamba
Dik dik - digidigi
Elephant - 22 mo gestation, 75 yr lifespan
Well, we made it through the night with no hyena attacks! At one point I heard a very loud breathing right next to me. I woke up with a start and tried to wake up Jonathan, but he was dead to the world. I didn't move and didn't even breath and listened to this heavy breathing for at least a few minutes straight until I finally realized it wasn't a hyena - it was Jonathan! Much relieved I went back to sleep.
If yesterday was the day of the lions, today was the day of the elephants! The previous 2 days we saw these magnificent creatures from far away, but today they were close enough to touch (don't worry, I didn't try.) We came upon a big group of them in the morning, including a few with babies of about 4-6 months. They were about 50 yards off the road, and we just sat quietly and watched them. Gradually they came closer and closer until they were right beside us and then crossed the road directly behind our truck.
They were eating grass and acacia trees. Ignasoro told us that the grown elephants eat up to 300 kg of vegetable matter a day! It's so interesting to watch them eat. They use their trunk to rip up huge wads of grass and stuff it in their mouths. They also eat the acacia trees, which have huge thorns, but they don't seem to care. They wrap their trunk around a branch and then rip off the whole branch, one strip at a time and eat all of it. Pretty impressive, but they leave a scene of destruction behind them.
We also got to see impala by the thousands today. They are so beautiful, and the males have the most impressive set of curved horns. We saw dik diks for the first time too. They are tiny little deer that are the size of a toy poodle on longer legs. They are very shy, and I didn't get very good pictures of them, but they also have little tiny horns. So sweet!
Another amazing site today was the hippo pool. There is a spot where the river makes a big pool, and there are about 100 hippos that hang out there during the day, all piled on top of each other. It's a smelly mess. They sit all day long in this pool and then go out at night to eat grass by the ton. They also poop all day long in the pool, so it's pretty gross. But they are such fascinating looking animals. One guide book described them as a bean bag on little legs with a bad attitude. The grown ones are absolutely huge, and their massive mouths can open up to 150 degrees. They do this from time to time to show off their huge canines in a display of aggression. We didn't see any fighting, but we heard that they can be very nasty to each other and we saw big scars on many of them. The baby hippos were so adorable, and they would try to crawl up on top of the pile sometimes, only to get yelled at by their parents. They make hilarious noises - grunting, blowing bubbles, farting. We watched them for a long time and then headed back for lunch.
In the afternoon we went out again and saw many animals taking a siesta. We came across another group of elephants, at least 28 by my count. There were two adolescent males who were play fighting. It was amazing to watch and hear their tusks scraping against each other. I don't think I would want to see a real fight, this was enough! There were two very little babies in this group, and they never were more than a foot away from their mother. Their gestation period is 22 months, and they can live up to 75 years or more.
As the sun was setting we watched a female lion slowly wake up and come down from her spot in an acacia tree. Quite a way to end the day!
Safari Day 3
Safari - day 3 - Serengeti
We awoke this morning to the most beautiful sunrise over the crater. Quite a way to start the day! By 8 am we were stuffed full of yummy breakfast and back on the road. We were headed to the Serengeti today by way of the Olduvai Gorge.
The Olduvai Gorge is part of the Great Rift Valley and is a very famous archeological site, often referred to as the birthplace of man. There is a small museum there that we visited. The true name for the site is Oldupai, but the first white people here misunderstood the Maasai, and heard Olduvai. Oldupai is the Maasai word for the sisal plant that grows in abundance here. Louis and Mary Leaky made this place famous by finding bones and fossils from ancient species of man as well as many extinct animals. The skull from Australopithicus (sp?) was found here and a skull and other bones from homo habilis. Also the famous footprints unearthed here are the first evidence of "man" walking upright that is known. It is a fascinating area, and excavation work is still ongoing, with a primary connection to Rutgers University in NJ.
The rest of the day was spent in the Serengeti National Park. Correct pronunciation here is Siringet, a Maasai word meaning "the grass plains with no end." And that is exactly what they seem like. The plains are so vast, and the farther we drove in, it seemed the farther they went in all directions.
We saw thousands of wildebeest. We are entering the rainy season now, so many animals migrate here and have their babies around now. At the height of calving, 8000 wildebeest will be born each day. There are many little wildebeest calves around now, who are so ugly they're really cute! Also many baby zebras, who are still very brown and absolutely adorable.
I can't even remember how many lions we saw today, but it was over 12! And many of them were up in the trees, taking a nap. They lie on their bellies on the big branches and let their legs dangle down. In one tree we saw 4 lions napping up in the branches. Another tree that overlooked a water hole had one female who was waiting up there for some unsuspecting little zebra or gazelle to come and get a drink.
We also saw many hippos today in the river. They splash in the water with their tails and make lots of noise. There were 2 crocodiles in the water with them and lots of little birds who sit on their backs and eat flies and other bugs.
In the distance we saw 2 leopards in a tree after lunch. The safari vehicles are not allowed to drive off the road, so we couldn't see them very closely. The leopards stay in the trees mostly during the day and do their hunting at night.
My favorite moment of the day was when we came upon a big watering hole. There were many zebras, hartebeest, topi hartebeest (with different coloring than the regular hartebeest,) warthogs, many birds, and a jackal. They were all milling around in the water, drinking or just wading, and seemed to all get along quite well. The warthog mother was a bit apprehensive about the jackal around her little ones, but the jackal was more interested in finding some eggs from the many birds around. The zebras are really cute and are constantly biting at each other and playing. The Swahili name for them is Punda Mlia, which just means donkey with stripes. That is definitely what they are. They bray like a donkey and are such tough little creatures!
We also saw thousands of Thomson's gazelles and Grant's gazelles today. Ignasoro told us that the Thomsen's gazelles can go over 2 weeks without water, which is why we saw them very far away from water, but the wildebeest need water every other day, so we never saw them too far from their next water source.
Tonight & tomorrow we are camping at Pindi campsite, which means "rock island" in Swahili. There are big rock outcroppings here. We have been told that the hyenas are very active here at night. We are not to leave anything outside our tent, and I'm going to try not to drink too much at dinner, because I don't want to go out to the bathroom by myself with the laughing hyenas lurking!!
We awoke this morning to the most beautiful sunrise over the crater. Quite a way to start the day! By 8 am we were stuffed full of yummy breakfast and back on the road. We were headed to the Serengeti today by way of the Olduvai Gorge.
The Olduvai Gorge is part of the Great Rift Valley and is a very famous archeological site, often referred to as the birthplace of man. There is a small museum there that we visited. The true name for the site is Oldupai, but the first white people here misunderstood the Maasai, and heard Olduvai. Oldupai is the Maasai word for the sisal plant that grows in abundance here. Louis and Mary Leaky made this place famous by finding bones and fossils from ancient species of man as well as many extinct animals. The skull from Australopithicus (sp?) was found here and a skull and other bones from homo habilis. Also the famous footprints unearthed here are the first evidence of "man" walking upright that is known. It is a fascinating area, and excavation work is still ongoing, with a primary connection to Rutgers University in NJ.
The rest of the day was spent in the Serengeti National Park. Correct pronunciation here is Siringet, a Maasai word meaning "the grass plains with no end." And that is exactly what they seem like. The plains are so vast, and the farther we drove in, it seemed the farther they went in all directions.
We saw thousands of wildebeest. We are entering the rainy season now, so many animals migrate here and have their babies around now. At the height of calving, 8000 wildebeest will be born each day. There are many little wildebeest calves around now, who are so ugly they're really cute! Also many baby zebras, who are still very brown and absolutely adorable.
I can't even remember how many lions we saw today, but it was over 12! And many of them were up in the trees, taking a nap. They lie on their bellies on the big branches and let their legs dangle down. In one tree we saw 4 lions napping up in the branches. Another tree that overlooked a water hole had one female who was waiting up there for some unsuspecting little zebra or gazelle to come and get a drink.
We also saw many hippos today in the river. They splash in the water with their tails and make lots of noise. There were 2 crocodiles in the water with them and lots of little birds who sit on their backs and eat flies and other bugs.
In the distance we saw 2 leopards in a tree after lunch. The safari vehicles are not allowed to drive off the road, so we couldn't see them very closely. The leopards stay in the trees mostly during the day and do their hunting at night.
My favorite moment of the day was when we came upon a big watering hole. There were many zebras, hartebeest, topi hartebeest (with different coloring than the regular hartebeest,) warthogs, many birds, and a jackal. They were all milling around in the water, drinking or just wading, and seemed to all get along quite well. The warthog mother was a bit apprehensive about the jackal around her little ones, but the jackal was more interested in finding some eggs from the many birds around. The zebras are really cute and are constantly biting at each other and playing. The Swahili name for them is Punda Mlia, which just means donkey with stripes. That is definitely what they are. They bray like a donkey and are such tough little creatures!
We also saw thousands of Thomson's gazelles and Grant's gazelles today. Ignasoro told us that the Thomsen's gazelles can go over 2 weeks without water, which is why we saw them very far away from water, but the wildebeest need water every other day, so we never saw them too far from their next water source.
Tonight & tomorrow we are camping at Pindi campsite, which means "rock island" in Swahili. There are big rock outcroppings here. We have been told that the hyenas are very active here at night. We are not to leave anything outside our tent, and I'm going to try not to drink too much at dinner, because I don't want to go out to the bathroom by myself with the laughing hyenas lurking!!
Safari - Days 1&2
Safari Day 1 - getting to Arusha
We took a bus from Dar to Arusha on Monday morning. Originally we were told it was an 8 hr trip, but when we asked the driver before getting on, he told us 10. In the end it took just over 11 hrs, but the bus did have everything they promised - leg room for Jonathan's seat, a bathroom on board, a tv, and best of all, air conditioning! After being so hot in Zanzibar & Dar, this was a must for such a long trip. And it was really a great way to see the countryside. There were humongous fields of sisal, a plant that looks a bit like agave or a huge aloe plant, but is used for its fiber - to make ropes.
The strangest thing to happen occurred about 2/3 of the way through the trip. The kung fu movie was long over, the Harrison Ford action thriller had just ended, and we were driving through some beautiful land as the sun began to set. Just then they started Coming To America, the Eddie Murphy/Arsenio Hall movie about an African prince visiting America to find his bride. It was so surreal to be passing poor villages, Maasai people herding cows, etc, as this movie plays in the background, Eddie Murphy pretending to be from some wealthy east African country populated by the lions and zebras we were about to see.
Day 2 - Ngorongoro Crater
Our safari guide, Ignasoro, and cook, Prochess, arrived at 8am on the dot to pick us up. We piled into the Land Cruiser and set off for our destination, Ngorongoro Conservation Area. As soon as we were out of Arusha, the land was so beautiful. We drove about 3 1/2 hours westward, into Maasai country. Everywhere we saw Maasai herding their cows and goats, and Maasai women decked out in all their jewelry. Pretty spectacular. We also came across 4 Maasai Giraffes on the road into Ngorongoro and a troupe of olive baboons. I really wanted to see giraffes on this trip, so I was already more than happy before we even reached the crater.
Ngorongoro area has been conserved since 1956 (proper Maasai pronunciation puts the emphasis on the Ns, not the Gs, I learned; it means crater in the Maasai language.) It is an absolutely huge caldera, about 20km across, and the views down into the crater as we drove in were out of this world.
I cannot possibly describe to you all the animals that we saw and do them any justice. So I'll just list them, along with approximately how many we saw and their name in Swahili, if I learned it:
Giraffe - 4 (twiga)
Baboon - about 6 (nyani)
Wildebeest - thousands (mwumbu)
Zebra - hundreds (punda mlia)
Thomson's Gazelle - hundreds
Hartebeest - a few
Lions - 7 or 8 (simba)
Hippo - 1 (kiboko)
Hyena - 2 (fisi)
Elephant - 2 lone bulls with tusks (Tembo)
African Buffalo - many (mbogo)
Black Rhino - 1 (kifaru)
Warthogs - many (ngiri)
Gerenuk - a few
Waterbuck - a few
Birds:
Guinea fowl - many
Ostrich - many
Crested crane - many
Ibis - many
Egret - a few
Augur buzzard (looks like a hawk) - 1
White backed vulture - a few
Secretary Bird - many
Superb starling - hundreds
Lesser flamingo - thousands
Corybastard - many
The weather was sunny, mild and breezy, our guide is excellent, and our cook is fabulous! We camped at Simba Campground, on the rim of the crater, underneath an absolutely enormous fig tree. I can definitely say that today ranks in my top 5 favorite days of my life!
We took a bus from Dar to Arusha on Monday morning. Originally we were told it was an 8 hr trip, but when we asked the driver before getting on, he told us 10. In the end it took just over 11 hrs, but the bus did have everything they promised - leg room for Jonathan's seat, a bathroom on board, a tv, and best of all, air conditioning! After being so hot in Zanzibar & Dar, this was a must for such a long trip. And it was really a great way to see the countryside. There were humongous fields of sisal, a plant that looks a bit like agave or a huge aloe plant, but is used for its fiber - to make ropes.
The strangest thing to happen occurred about 2/3 of the way through the trip. The kung fu movie was long over, the Harrison Ford action thriller had just ended, and we were driving through some beautiful land as the sun began to set. Just then they started Coming To America, the Eddie Murphy/Arsenio Hall movie about an African prince visiting America to find his bride. It was so surreal to be passing poor villages, Maasai people herding cows, etc, as this movie plays in the background, Eddie Murphy pretending to be from some wealthy east African country populated by the lions and zebras we were about to see.
Day 2 - Ngorongoro Crater
Our safari guide, Ignasoro, and cook, Prochess, arrived at 8am on the dot to pick us up. We piled into the Land Cruiser and set off for our destination, Ngorongoro Conservation Area. As soon as we were out of Arusha, the land was so beautiful. We drove about 3 1/2 hours westward, into Maasai country. Everywhere we saw Maasai herding their cows and goats, and Maasai women decked out in all their jewelry. Pretty spectacular. We also came across 4 Maasai Giraffes on the road into Ngorongoro and a troupe of olive baboons. I really wanted to see giraffes on this trip, so I was already more than happy before we even reached the crater.
Ngorongoro area has been conserved since 1956 (proper Maasai pronunciation puts the emphasis on the Ns, not the Gs, I learned; it means crater in the Maasai language.) It is an absolutely huge caldera, about 20km across, and the views down into the crater as we drove in were out of this world.
I cannot possibly describe to you all the animals that we saw and do them any justice. So I'll just list them, along with approximately how many we saw and their name in Swahili, if I learned it:
Giraffe - 4 (twiga)
Baboon - about 6 (nyani)
Wildebeest - thousands (mwumbu)
Zebra - hundreds (punda mlia)
Thomson's Gazelle - hundreds
Hartebeest - a few
Lions - 7 or 8 (simba)
Hippo - 1 (kiboko)
Hyena - 2 (fisi)
Elephant - 2 lone bulls with tusks (Tembo)
African Buffalo - many (mbogo)
Black Rhino - 1 (kifaru)
Warthogs - many (ngiri)
Gerenuk - a few
Waterbuck - a few
Birds:
Guinea fowl - many
Ostrich - many
Crested crane - many
Ibis - many
Egret - a few
Augur buzzard (looks like a hawk) - 1
White backed vulture - a few
Secretary Bird - many
Superb starling - hundreds
Lesser flamingo - thousands
Corybastard - many
The weather was sunny, mild and breezy, our guide is excellent, and our cook is fabulous! We camped at Simba Campground, on the rim of the crater, underneath an absolutely enormous fig tree. I can definitely say that today ranks in my top 5 favorite days of my life!
Sunday, March 18, 2012
Zanzibar
Zanzibar
Thursday morning we took another bijaji out to the ferry in the morning and headed out to Zanzibar. The ride was about two hours, and we sat on the upper deck where we got a nice breeze and a great view. We sat in front of two Masai guys, who I chatted with for a bit. The Masai tribe lives in northern Tanzania, and they are known mostly as very tall, lean people, who wear beautiful beaded jewelry, and have cows as their main means of survival. They also send their young men down south, to Dar Es Salaam & Zanzibar, among other places, to work as guards and to sell their jewelry. Everywhere we went in Dar, there were Masai men in traditional dress, holding a spear, guarding outside restaurants and in parking lots. I guess if you're a thief, it's a pretty good deterrence to come upon a 6'5" Masai man with a huge spear!
Zanzibar is a fascinating place, because it has been important for trade for so many centuries. There is mention of it in historical records from before the time of Christ. Many cultures have influenced Zanzibar - the local tribes, the Persian people, Europeans, Indians, etc. The architecture is the first thing you notice coming into the harbor. Most of the famous buildings were constructed during Sultan Seyyid Bargash's reign. We could see the tops of mosques, churches, and Hindu temples as our boat pulled in. Zanzibar is predominantly Muslim, but they pride themselves on their openness and religious tolerance, and we heard from many people how all religions are welcomed there.
Stone Town is the old part of the port city there, on the western side of the island. It was called Stone Town because all the buildings there were made of stone, whereas across the river, the poor houses were made of wood. It is truly like a maze, with very narrow streets and twists and turns everywhere with no street signs. We were pretty much constantly lost, but it's a very small town, and at least we were happy to wander around lost, taking in the history all around us until we finally stumbled upon our intended destination.
We settled into our hostel and then had a little lunch. The food here is heavily influenced by the Indian community, and it is delicious! We wondered around crazy Stone Town and saw Beit El-Ajaib, The House of Wonders. It was built by the Sultan in the late 1800s and was the first house in East Africa to have indoor plumbing, electricity and an elevator. Not surprising that the locals nicknamed it The House of Wonders.
We also saw the old fort, which was originally built by the Portuguese. It is now used as a market for selling knickknacks to tourists and for holding concerts. There is a large, stone amphitheater that was originally used for slave auctions. Zanzibar was a center of the slave trade in the 18th ad 19th centuries. The old Slave Market is now the site of a huge Anglican church. The slaves came mostly from West Africa, and then from Zanzibar were sold off to other parts of the world. In the House of Wonders there were many painting depicting the slave market and auctions and even a few photographs. Slavery was outlawed here by the British at the end of the 19th century.
We spent the late afternoon in our hotel room trying to cool off. It is so hot and humid here, as we are 6 degrees south of the equator. Amazingly, our little room had a wall air conditioning unit, which I have never been so happy to see in all my life!
We headed back out for dinner, at a little park by the water. There were lots of vendors selling kabobs of local types of seafood - tuna, red snapper, swordfish, octopus, calamari, lobster, and on and on. Most stands also had nan and chapatti bread, so we got a few skewers and a couple pieces of bread and sat tby the water to watch the sunset.
The next day we spent the morning on a spice tour. This is the first organized tour we've done on this whole trip, but it was highly recommended to us by Logan and Molly. They took us into the center of the island, where they still grow many of the spices that first made Zanzibar famous. We saw nutmeg, cardamom, vanilla, cinnamon, lemongrass, ginger, turmeric, red curry, cloves, pepper, jasmine, ylang ylang, allspice, and more that I'm forgetting. They also grew oranges, limes, passion fruit, guava, papaya, watermelons, pineapple, mangoes, coconuts, breadfruit and jack fruit. We got to taste many of these fruits and then had a delicious lunch made by one of the women in this little village, utilizing a lot of the spices we had just learned about.
After the spice tour, we took a dolla-dolla out to the east coast of the island where we were meeting Molly & Logan for the weekend. The dolla-dollas are trucks that have been outfitted with benches on either side of the bed, and then a cover placed over top of the bed. And into this contraption they managed to squeeze on 35 people and all their cargo. It might not have been the safest or most comfortable way to travel, but it sure was cheap!
We are staying at a beautiful hotel right on the beach that has a salt water pool and a great restaurant. We made plans for snorkeling the next morning. I have never been snorkeling, which no one here can believe, but I'm excited to try it out. The water here is crystal clear and there is incredible coral all around us.
We headed out with Captain Mu at 10 the next morning in his dhow. A dhow is a dugout canoe with a balancer (outrigger?) on either side. There is no motor, but there was good wind, and we all helped to raise the sail and head out. Even fairly far out from shore, it is still quite shallow, only about 15-20 feet deep. It took me a while to get the hang of breathing out of my mouth, but it finally started to feel normal, and I could enjoy the sites below. There was so much coral, all different types and colors, and so many different types of starfish. We saw clams, sea urchins, zebra fish, clown fish, tiny iridescent blue fish, needle fish, etc. It was absolutely incredible. For someone who has never snorkeled, I think I got pretty spoiled with my first experience. It was like swimming in an aquarium or swimming through a Pixar movie. Although I got a little sunburned, I think this experience stands out as one of my favorites from our travels.
We relaxed in the shade that afternoon and had a great dinner of more seafood. We played some serious games of banana grams and fell asleep sunburned but happy. Tomorrow we will enjoy the morning here before heading back to Stone Town and then home to Molly and Logan's. Monday morning Jonathan and I get on our last long distance bus to head up to Arusha.
Thursday morning we took another bijaji out to the ferry in the morning and headed out to Zanzibar. The ride was about two hours, and we sat on the upper deck where we got a nice breeze and a great view. We sat in front of two Masai guys, who I chatted with for a bit. The Masai tribe lives in northern Tanzania, and they are known mostly as very tall, lean people, who wear beautiful beaded jewelry, and have cows as their main means of survival. They also send their young men down south, to Dar Es Salaam & Zanzibar, among other places, to work as guards and to sell their jewelry. Everywhere we went in Dar, there were Masai men in traditional dress, holding a spear, guarding outside restaurants and in parking lots. I guess if you're a thief, it's a pretty good deterrence to come upon a 6'5" Masai man with a huge spear!
Zanzibar is a fascinating place, because it has been important for trade for so many centuries. There is mention of it in historical records from before the time of Christ. Many cultures have influenced Zanzibar - the local tribes, the Persian people, Europeans, Indians, etc. The architecture is the first thing you notice coming into the harbor. Most of the famous buildings were constructed during Sultan Seyyid Bargash's reign. We could see the tops of mosques, churches, and Hindu temples as our boat pulled in. Zanzibar is predominantly Muslim, but they pride themselves on their openness and religious tolerance, and we heard from many people how all religions are welcomed there.
Stone Town is the old part of the port city there, on the western side of the island. It was called Stone Town because all the buildings there were made of stone, whereas across the river, the poor houses were made of wood. It is truly like a maze, with very narrow streets and twists and turns everywhere with no street signs. We were pretty much constantly lost, but it's a very small town, and at least we were happy to wander around lost, taking in the history all around us until we finally stumbled upon our intended destination.
We settled into our hostel and then had a little lunch. The food here is heavily influenced by the Indian community, and it is delicious! We wondered around crazy Stone Town and saw Beit El-Ajaib, The House of Wonders. It was built by the Sultan in the late 1800s and was the first house in East Africa to have indoor plumbing, electricity and an elevator. Not surprising that the locals nicknamed it The House of Wonders.
We also saw the old fort, which was originally built by the Portuguese. It is now used as a market for selling knickknacks to tourists and for holding concerts. There is a large, stone amphitheater that was originally used for slave auctions. Zanzibar was a center of the slave trade in the 18th ad 19th centuries. The old Slave Market is now the site of a huge Anglican church. The slaves came mostly from West Africa, and then from Zanzibar were sold off to other parts of the world. In the House of Wonders there were many painting depicting the slave market and auctions and even a few photographs. Slavery was outlawed here by the British at the end of the 19th century.
We spent the late afternoon in our hotel room trying to cool off. It is so hot and humid here, as we are 6 degrees south of the equator. Amazingly, our little room had a wall air conditioning unit, which I have never been so happy to see in all my life!
We headed back out for dinner, at a little park by the water. There were lots of vendors selling kabobs of local types of seafood - tuna, red snapper, swordfish, octopus, calamari, lobster, and on and on. Most stands also had nan and chapatti bread, so we got a few skewers and a couple pieces of bread and sat tby the water to watch the sunset.
The next day we spent the morning on a spice tour. This is the first organized tour we've done on this whole trip, but it was highly recommended to us by Logan and Molly. They took us into the center of the island, where they still grow many of the spices that first made Zanzibar famous. We saw nutmeg, cardamom, vanilla, cinnamon, lemongrass, ginger, turmeric, red curry, cloves, pepper, jasmine, ylang ylang, allspice, and more that I'm forgetting. They also grew oranges, limes, passion fruit, guava, papaya, watermelons, pineapple, mangoes, coconuts, breadfruit and jack fruit. We got to taste many of these fruits and then had a delicious lunch made by one of the women in this little village, utilizing a lot of the spices we had just learned about.
After the spice tour, we took a dolla-dolla out to the east coast of the island where we were meeting Molly & Logan for the weekend. The dolla-dollas are trucks that have been outfitted with benches on either side of the bed, and then a cover placed over top of the bed. And into this contraption they managed to squeeze on 35 people and all their cargo. It might not have been the safest or most comfortable way to travel, but it sure was cheap!
We are staying at a beautiful hotel right on the beach that has a salt water pool and a great restaurant. We made plans for snorkeling the next morning. I have never been snorkeling, which no one here can believe, but I'm excited to try it out. The water here is crystal clear and there is incredible coral all around us.
We headed out with Captain Mu at 10 the next morning in his dhow. A dhow is a dugout canoe with a balancer (outrigger?) on either side. There is no motor, but there was good wind, and we all helped to raise the sail and head out. Even fairly far out from shore, it is still quite shallow, only about 15-20 feet deep. It took me a while to get the hang of breathing out of my mouth, but it finally started to feel normal, and I could enjoy the sites below. There was so much coral, all different types and colors, and so many different types of starfish. We saw clams, sea urchins, zebra fish, clown fish, tiny iridescent blue fish, needle fish, etc. It was absolutely incredible. For someone who has never snorkeled, I think I got pretty spoiled with my first experience. It was like swimming in an aquarium or swimming through a Pixar movie. Although I got a little sunburned, I think this experience stands out as one of my favorites from our travels.
We relaxed in the shade that afternoon and had a great dinner of more seafood. We played some serious games of banana grams and fell asleep sunburned but happy. Tomorrow we will enjoy the morning here before heading back to Stone Town and then home to Molly and Logan's. Monday morning Jonathan and I get on our last long distance bus to head up to Arusha.
Friday, March 16, 2012
More Dar
More Dar
The last few days have been spent in Dar Es Salaam, mostly hanging out with Molly & Logan and exploring the city. We kept planning to take a day trip out to Bongoyo Island, but it never worked out. Monday it was raining, so we scrapped our plans for the island, and we spent a delightful day in the cool air conditioning reading, catching up on emails and news, and doing a little shopping across the street at the market that sells hand crafted goods. That night we made pizzas from scratch that were amazing. Molly and Logan are both great cooks, and they have a fantastic kitchen with every implement you could need. We shared some sparkling wine we had brought from Mendoza, and it complimented the pizza very well.
Tuesday we tried to go to the island again, but the boat driver said he had to have 4 people to go, and we are only 2, no matter how hard we try! He offered to take us anyway, for the price of 4, but we politely declined. Instead we headed into the city in a bijaji - a 3 wheeled motorcycle taxi with a cover that seats two passengers in the back and the driver up front. It's a great, inexpensive way to get around. The traffic is often really bad here, and these bijajis can fit through traffic pretty easily. We went first to the national museum, where they have many different exhibitions. One wing has the history of Tanzania and its peoples, from before European "visitors," as they politely called them, through the time of the heaviest slave trading, tgrough German occupation, finally through independence and up to present day. Then they had a very good exhibit on evolution, geared toward middle school age children, that we both really enjoyed. Northern Tanzania is home to the Olduvai Gorge, considered the cradle of civilization or the "birthplace" of man. They had many fossils as well as skulls and bones on display of ancient hominids that have been found there. The Leakys were the most famous anthropologists who did a lot of excavation there, but there have been many others as well. There were several skulls on display of species of hominids I wasn't even familiar with, including one that had a huge ridge along the top of the skull that looked like a mini stegasaurus Wild!
After the museum we wandered next door to the botanical gardens. We were strolling through when all of a sudden we saw a bunch of Vervet Monkeys. There were a few grown males and females and quite a few youngsters, who were busy playing in the trees. We sat under one tree and watched them for a long time. The babies were very curious and stayed in the low branches above our heads staring down at us. The adults were wary but definitely wanted food from us, so they inched closer and closer. They were so cute and have very long, prehensile tails that are amazing.
That evening, a friend of Logan's who works for USAID came over. He had been a Peace Corps volunteer on Samoa, so he and Jonathan had lots to talk about. After sharing some kava he brought from Samoa, we headed out to get some mishkaki - grilled meat on a stick served with French fries.
The next day Jonathan and I headed back into the city to finalize details of our upcoming trips - Zanzibar, and our safari! We found a wonderful bijaji driver who took us all around. First stop was the Ubongo bus station, where we needed to get tickets for the following week to take us up to Arusha, in northern Tanzania, where our safari will start. We had been warned that the bus station was crazy, with tons of guys who immediately start trying to help you before you've even gotten out of your vehicle. They pull you and pressure you into going to the bus company that will give them a small commission for bringing customers, and then they demand a tip for having "helped" you. But we are getting to be pros at this, and we avoided them pretty easily. I had done my research on which bus companies were good, and we went straight into those ticket counters, avoiding the pushy guys. Once we got our tickets, our sweet bijaji driver was waiting to take us to our next stop - the ferry ticket offices.
We will take the ferry out to Zanzibar on Thursday and back on Sunday. This place was even worse with the pushy guys trying to get your business, but again, we knew exactly the company we wanted, and marched straight into and out of their office.
That night we went out for fabulous Indian food. There is a very large Indian community in Dar, and they have a restaurant as part of a club for badminton players! Since we are not members, we could not play, but we could pay to eat there. The food was delicious. I never thought I would be in a private badminton club, but there are surprises around every corner here.
Tomorrow we're off to Zanzibar, and Molly & Logan will join us there Friday afternoon for the weekend. It is exactly 2 weeks until we are back in the US as I'm writing this. It is so crazy to think how quickly this trip has flown by!!
The last few days have been spent in Dar Es Salaam, mostly hanging out with Molly & Logan and exploring the city. We kept planning to take a day trip out to Bongoyo Island, but it never worked out. Monday it was raining, so we scrapped our plans for the island, and we spent a delightful day in the cool air conditioning reading, catching up on emails and news, and doing a little shopping across the street at the market that sells hand crafted goods. That night we made pizzas from scratch that were amazing. Molly and Logan are both great cooks, and they have a fantastic kitchen with every implement you could need. We shared some sparkling wine we had brought from Mendoza, and it complimented the pizza very well.
Tuesday we tried to go to the island again, but the boat driver said he had to have 4 people to go, and we are only 2, no matter how hard we try! He offered to take us anyway, for the price of 4, but we politely declined. Instead we headed into the city in a bijaji - a 3 wheeled motorcycle taxi with a cover that seats two passengers in the back and the driver up front. It's a great, inexpensive way to get around. The traffic is often really bad here, and these bijajis can fit through traffic pretty easily. We went first to the national museum, where they have many different exhibitions. One wing has the history of Tanzania and its peoples, from before European "visitors," as they politely called them, through the time of the heaviest slave trading, tgrough German occupation, finally through independence and up to present day. Then they had a very good exhibit on evolution, geared toward middle school age children, that we both really enjoyed. Northern Tanzania is home to the Olduvai Gorge, considered the cradle of civilization or the "birthplace" of man. They had many fossils as well as skulls and bones on display of ancient hominids that have been found there. The Leakys were the most famous anthropologists who did a lot of excavation there, but there have been many others as well. There were several skulls on display of species of hominids I wasn't even familiar with, including one that had a huge ridge along the top of the skull that looked like a mini stegasaurus Wild!
After the museum we wandered next door to the botanical gardens. We were strolling through when all of a sudden we saw a bunch of Vervet Monkeys. There were a few grown males and females and quite a few youngsters, who were busy playing in the trees. We sat under one tree and watched them for a long time. The babies were very curious and stayed in the low branches above our heads staring down at us. The adults were wary but definitely wanted food from us, so they inched closer and closer. They were so cute and have very long, prehensile tails that are amazing.
That evening, a friend of Logan's who works for USAID came over. He had been a Peace Corps volunteer on Samoa, so he and Jonathan had lots to talk about. After sharing some kava he brought from Samoa, we headed out to get some mishkaki - grilled meat on a stick served with French fries.
The next day Jonathan and I headed back into the city to finalize details of our upcoming trips - Zanzibar, and our safari! We found a wonderful bijaji driver who took us all around. First stop was the Ubongo bus station, where we needed to get tickets for the following week to take us up to Arusha, in northern Tanzania, where our safari will start. We had been warned that the bus station was crazy, with tons of guys who immediately start trying to help you before you've even gotten out of your vehicle. They pull you and pressure you into going to the bus company that will give them a small commission for bringing customers, and then they demand a tip for having "helped" you. But we are getting to be pros at this, and we avoided them pretty easily. I had done my research on which bus companies were good, and we went straight into those ticket counters, avoiding the pushy guys. Once we got our tickets, our sweet bijaji driver was waiting to take us to our next stop - the ferry ticket offices.
We will take the ferry out to Zanzibar on Thursday and back on Sunday. This place was even worse with the pushy guys trying to get your business, but again, we knew exactly the company we wanted, and marched straight into and out of their office.
That night we went out for fabulous Indian food. There is a very large Indian community in Dar, and they have a restaurant as part of a club for badminton players! Since we are not members, we could not play, but we could pay to eat there. The food was delicious. I never thought I would be in a private badminton club, but there are surprises around every corner here.
Tomorrow we're off to Zanzibar, and Molly & Logan will join us there Friday afternoon for the weekend. It is exactly 2 weeks until we are back in the US as I'm writing this. It is so crazy to think how quickly this trip has flown by!!
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